Goa Gills

Shack up with this list for the rest of the season! We’re hooking up with brand new Goa openings without forgetting about our favourites. Here’s a gathering of old loves and new pursuits: restaurants, bars, bakeries, B&Bs & hotels in North & South Goa. Download before your trip & share as a PDF here.

Stay: Bada**Boutique Stays & Bountiful Villas

Amaraanth

This is the boutique hotel of your dreams. A restaurant curated by renowned chef Ritu Dalmia; a bar program designed by cocktail-world superstar Pankaj Balachandran; a spa & wellness space - HVN - plucked from London; and a store by Yellow House Parra. Depending on which suite you pick to stay at (from their 3 categories - we recommend the Signature Suite), you get access to breezy balconies, outdoor bathtubs and lush private yards. Everything on the property subscribes to the susegad life, and a few minutes after you arrive here, you will too. A list of experiences - Feni tasting under the tree, mixology lessons - and the property’s proximity to the fabulous Fatrade beach is the icing on the cake, and the fact that Amaraanth is currently offering a complementary third night stay to celebrate its first birthday, is the cherry on top; available only in November ‘25. 

www.amaraanth.com, 2nd Fatrade, Varca, Kolve, 9225588790, Instagram.

Beleza By The Beach 

As you are pulled like the tide towards the lure of South Goa, consider Beleza by the Beach for your stay. Anchored on the sugary white sand Betalbatim beach - which often gifts you a bioluminescent glow at night - it offers luxe villas with plunge pools and terrace suites with al fresco tubs + access to the main pool and beach, really allowing you to make a splash on your vacation. While you frolic in its many water bodies, don’t forget to pencil in time at the in-house restaurants: Nazare (with live performances) on the beach front and Tentaco (eat local Goan delicacies surrounded by paddy fields) at the poolside.

belezagoa.com, Thondwaddo, Betalbatim, Salcette, 9850205647, Instagram.

Elsewhere

Elsewhere, which dates back to 1886, is built on land inherited by two brothers - a priest and a gynecologist. Immaculately conceived on this land now are Goa’s most tasteful beach houses to rent - terracotta and sky blue coloured cottages named after what their roles used to be back then (The Piggery, The Bakery, The Priest’s House, The Captain’s House, The Creek House). Elsewhere also offers three butter yellow creek-facing tents with four poster beds, air conditioning, hot showers and if you are lucky, a view of otters swimming past.

www.aseascape.com, Ashvem, Mandrem, 9923587713, Instagram.

The First House

This gorgeous 10 bedroom villa in Saligao, exclusively managed by The Villa Escape, is renovated and restored by architect Ayaz Basrai (The Busride Studio). The perfect meeting place for old-world Goan charm and modern luxury, The First House offers high ceilings and plenty of natural light, poker and snooker tables, as well as two swimming pools with clear views of the paddy fields. Meanwhile, a gazebo and sun loungers, wrap-around porches and lawns make themselves available for barbecues, cocktails and tea. There is also uninterrupted Wi-fi and a large screen television for those who can’t shake off their big-city addictions. Our favourite feature: a hydroponic garden that provides the bounty for farm-to-fork dinners; in-villa yoga and massages can be booked as well. P.S: Yes, the Second House restaurant is right next door to The First House.

thefirsthousegoa.com, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 9820027727 / [email protected], Instagram.

The Island Sanctuary

Located on the serene island of Chorao (home to the popular Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary) and a short ferry ride from the capital is a boutique Portuguese 3 bed room villa and 2 condos with a private pool. This chicly styled property is for those who want a taste of Goan village life. Amenities & activities include cycling around the island, fishing, kayaking, culinary and culture tours, backwater boat rides and slow living. The villa is equipped with free Wi-Fi, a barbecue grill, cycles and pick up and drop services. The rooms are a haven for quiet reading, yoga and meditation, romantic dining and group bonding, while providing a peek into the rich birdlife of the island.

www.islandsanctuarygoa.com, Pomburpa Road, near Devaki Krishna Temple and Shirodkar Stores, Chorao, 8805808843 / 8805456355, Instagram.

JW Marriott Goa

The new-ish JW Marriott Goa in North Goa feels more caring and less corporate, a non-towering building with warm wooden accents, water bodies and lush foliage. It’s got all the efficiency of a five-star, and all the considerate deets of a boutique hotel. First, gush over the hotel’s location and then rush over to their sexy, slick spa that finally offers Goa vacationers and residents a non-Snip massage option. On weekends, go from spa-serene to sonic-sunsets at Agua Bar & Cafe at the brim of a beach-facing infinity pool. End at their new Nikkei (Japanese + Peruvian) restaurant Heliconia, helmed by Peruvian chef, Arturo Castro Salazar.

www.marriott.com, Vagator Beach, Bardez, call 8326749800, Instagram.

The Orchard Manor

This astonishingly beautiful private mansion isn’t listed on any booking portal, which means you have to get past owner Ozzy Serrao on Whatsapp or Instagram to be considered worthy. Once you’re in, you will discover 12,000 sq ft of pure luxury in the heart of Anjuna, equipped with 2 chefs, 2 massage therapists, and a dedicated staff of 15. The temperature controlled infinity pool overlooks Anjuna’s emerald green paddy fields, the six suites are expansive and decorated with Art Deco and Mid Century furniture sourced from auction houses, including a museum grade piano, a 100-year old iron bathtub in the Penthouse Suite for al fresco bathing, and a light fixture that survived the terror attack on the Taj Hotel, Mumbai. We also love Orchard Manor’s concierge (run by Ozzy himself) that can bag reservations at top restaurants, create bespoke itineraries and organise experiences like single malt tastings and sound healing sessions at the mansion. Om sweet om.

Anjuna Mapusa Road, Gaunvaddi, Anjuna, 9819046730, Instagram, the entire private mansion needs to be booked.

ParijaatGoa & Messeke Pottery Studio

We’ve recommended this Anjuna gem enough times for you to be on first-name basis - Kavita and Manoj - with the family that runs it. It’s always sunny here at ParijaatGoa, where a beautiful two-room cottage can be booked per room or in its entirety. The family lives on the property, and so special attention is paid to everything including their Languid Breakfast, laid out on a long outdoor table. The breakfast is put together with homemade pickles, garden-picked ingredients, local specialities and Kavita’s home made specials including muesli, her spin on Shakshouka, Appam & Stew and Turkish eggs. All this, in the company of a paddy field-facing pool, chirpy birds and a family that really subscribes to ‘slow living’. And at the in-house Messeke pottery studio, you can sign up to take classes with Kavita - whether you are staying at ParijaatGoa or not - and also shop her creations including angel figurines and little flamingo-pink bowls that appear to have long legs. Tweet this.

www.parijaatgoa.com, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, near Cream Choc gelato shop, 9820044249, Instagram here & here.

Sawantwadi Palace Hotel

A mere 40 minute drive from North Goa’s new MOPA airport, this 18th century palace hotel - the only palace hotel in Maharashtra - run by the royal family is the ‘yasss kween’ of the Konkan coast. Imagine a boutique hotel whose design is driven by 16th century Ganjifa art, rooms decked with antiques, a lush pool framed by palm trees and open courtyards that let the rain in. Its founder residents crowned prince and princess Lakham and Shraddha Bhonsle are both Culinary Institute of America graduates, which means that this property is more than just a stunner. Together, the Bhonsles are creating a culinary cradle in Sawantwadi - also great for day food trips from Goa - offering Konkan heirloom recipes along with what they specialise in - Japanese and Korean food plus hand rolled croissants and plated desserts that look like the crown jewels.

sawantwadipalace.com, NH17, Sindhudurg, Khaskilwada, Sawantwadi, 7498488318, Instagram.

Siolim House

This one’s a classic. Always at the top of our stay chart is the gorgeous Siolim House, a heritage hotel that whiles away the time in a slow Goa village. You can choose to stay in any one of the several buildings scattered across the lush, luxe property: The Governor’s House, Back House and Upper Garden Cottage, where suites come with four poster beds, antique furnishings, 200-400 count luxury linen and peace. The Upper Garden Suite is a separate maisonette, with a private patio to enjoy drinks and meals, al fresco. The sapphire pool is set in a tropical garden; fresh ingredients are set in a gourmet breakfast (included in your stay); and beach, market and restaurant recommendations are set up by the staff if you need them. 

www.siolimhouse.com, Wadi, opp Wadi Chapel, Siolim, 9822584560 / [email protected], Instagram.

Unseen

Brand new in Assagao, Unseen introduces itself as “the world's first coffee-first boutique hotel” offering in-house roastery rituals and coffee omakase, along with a bakery and a cocktail bar called Uncultured where "polite conversations go to die”. The rooms and suites feature furnishings, walls and bathtubs in shades of coffee. We’re getting buzzed just thinking about it. Marketing gimmick or not, it’s nice to have a neat accommodation option that lies between a villa and a five star hotel. 

www.unseenboutiquehotel.com, Instagram

Other stay options: Ahilya by the Sea; Cabo Serai; The Postcard Hotels, Vaayu Kula; Casa Galgibaga.

Eat & Drink: B**f Cutlets, Reef Swims

A Wineyard

“They say Goa doesn’t do wine. We put that theory to test.” Wineyard is bringing wine to the yard - quite literally - with a century old house that allows “picnic drinking” in its backyard. Quality wine will be rivalled by great coffee and the view of an Instagram-perfect paddyfield. From the people who brought you Unbox Labs, and the same minds and brines behind Outrigger, Middle Room and Wine in Progress. Opening, soon near Panjim. Can’t wait to be at its malbec and call.

Instagram

Amber Cocktail Bar

It’s easy to mistake this beach bar's cocktail menu for a garden harvest one, where pastel coloured flowers bloom in fragrant cocktails and Ashwem’s hippest hippies gather for post swim aperitivo. Our recommendation: get a batch of their prosecco-based Super Mimosas and climb up to the mezzanine for stunning sunset views with your sips. Closed for the season so check back post monsoon.

Ashwem Beach, near Change Your Mind, Ashwem, Instagram.

Andron

You'll learn to ignore the plastic chairs at this Goan restaurant once you get started on their seriously stunning pork sorpotel and ribs. If you are seeking refuge from the Bali-fication of Goa’s restaurant space, a proper Goan meal at this fuss-free village eatery will set you straight.

Mapusa Aldona Road, Nachinola, 9421194482.

Bar Colddrinks

A night out at this friendly neighbourhood bar is a reminder of why you tolerate the overpriced villas and taxis in Goa. It’s fun, unpretentious and sieves the stress right out of you without over explaining its mint julep or manifesto. By the same team that runs Pablo’s which is also great for a chill night out. PS: they also have nine beers on tap.

Ucassaim, open from 5 pm to 11 pm, Instagram.

Bar Outrigger 

Is Bar Outrigger the most fun bar experience in India right now? It might be; we flew to Goa just for it and we’d do it again. Surrounded by water on three sides with push open windows - and a smoker’s staircase that disappears into the sea! - this new ode-to-rum Goa bar seems to be teetering at the edge of the sea, held in place by star bar player Arijit Bose. Inside, Outrigger feels like a pirate’s lair without feeling like a Jack Sparrow themed ride. Big bowls of tropical fruit, sailing ropes and a port hole are bound together by Busride’s slick design elements. Our favourite things about Bar Outrigger: the cocktails - delicious but not deliriously complicated - don’t take themselves too seriously; it isn’t located in Assaago or Anjuna, but in an old residential village in Dona Paula; you can go during the day, leave your half drunk cocktail for a beach swim which is just a flight of stairs away (they have showers and towels!) and return; or ask them to pack you a picnic of oysters and beer and arrange a boat trip. 

Dona Paula Road, Panaji, 9146867585, Instagram.

Bhatti Village

This “family restaurant & bar” is the best place to sit down for a Goan Portuguese feast. From Crab Xacuti and sannas to rava fried fish and beef cutlets, this one features on the top 10 Goa lists of several chefs and restaurateurs.

Bhatti Waddo, Nerul, 9822184103, Instagram.

Boilermaker 

Pankaj Balachandran (Bar Tesouro, Countertop cocktail consultants) and Nakul Bhonsle (Great State Ale Works) come together to give us a faux dive bar in Siolim that mixes a merry Goa mood with a masterful cocktail program. Here, drinks combine ingredients like caramelised Moira bananas with miso and feni; gochujang, jalapeno, pineapple and grapefruit with tequila. Beer is on tap and flavoured / infused / aged with cashews, Gondhoraj limes and whisky. Also, hi to Bombay’s Rajat Mendhi from Bombay Picnics who consulted on the food. Ants, march forward.

Church, Vaddi Siolim, Enroute Thalassa from, opposite Vailanka Wine store, Siolim, 9226049851, Instagram

Bombil and Satpurush

Committed Goa thali hunter and bpb Goa contributor Insia Lacewalla loves Bombil; get the amazing vegetarian thali, she says, with a ton of seafood-of-the-day offerings on the side. For a more local vibe, hit Satpurush and follow it up with a nap at Morjim beach, which is a seashell’s throw away.

Bombil, opp Military Hospital, Campal Brg, Panaji; Satpurush, New Wada, Morjim.

Bomras

So many years later, Bomras is still on everyone's Goa gluttony list and for good reason. Their Southeast Asian-inspired modern cuisine driven by chef Bawmra, draws inspiration from Northern Burma's ethnic tribes. It’s easy to skip over their tomato salad, but don’t. It is bright and bristling with toasted peanuts and fried onions + garlic. Combine this with a meal of Black Scotched Eggs, Pickled Tea Leaf Salad, Spicy Beef Tataki, Jamón Iberico with Honeydew Melon, and the crowd-favourite Khow Suey at Sunday brunch. Chef Bawmra’s kitchen is a lesson in quiet consistency, a reminder that reliability can be sexy too!

1152, opp. Our Lady Of Health Chapel, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 9767591056, Instagram.

C’est L’avi - Table in the Hills

Ditch the over-Instagrammed feni field experience for this fantastic farm feast instead. Perched in the hills of the South, this is quite possibly the freshest meal you will eat in Goa. Celebrity chef Avinash Martins is the chief bounty hunter here at this by-reservation-only spot (book 48 hours prior, minimum 6 people), serving beautifully plated modern interpretations of local dishes like crab xec xec, Kalchi kodi, fish head caldo and a mezze platter that tastes of Goa. Like the kitchen, the bar here is also in hot pursuit of fresh, local inspiration.

Velim Salcette, South Goa, 8805258277, Instagram.

Cafe Lento

A lattice of green creepers crowns Cafe Lento, Goa’s hip new(ish) all-day breakfast and espresso bar from the stable of Second House. If you loved Second House’s salmon toast - we did! - you will love what chef Jyoti Singh does with bread here. Our picks: truffle cheese toastie, Mexican eggs and Lento crab omelet.

Cafe Lento, next to The Second House, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 7447770711, Instagram.

Cavatina

Appearing consistently on India's best restaurant lists and rating charts, Cavatina is the reason to travel to South Goa. Headed by star chef Avinash Martins, this modern Indian restaurant re-imagines Goan food while you take in a stunning sunset in Benaulim. Chef Martins works with the best farmers and local producers which means the ingredients are super fresh, and the menus, seasonal. bpb loves: Sannas and Toddy Tapper; clams just fished out of the river Sal and cooked with almond ajo blanco sauce, local seaweed and kaffir lime oil; and a Portuguese Serradura made as a torte. 

Taj Hotel Road, near Joecons Beach Resort, Benaulim, South Goa, 7276413482, Instagram.

Chakos

What started as a lockdown business for husband-wife duo Karan & Aishwarya selling Kerala pickles in Goa, is now a lovely little Malayali restaurant in Panjim with checkered floors and a view of the Rua De Ourem creek. Get the podi started here with playful cocktails, mop up Malabar curries with parottas and appams, keep room for Thalassery biryani, and don't forget to buy Ammama-approved pickles on your way out.

www.mychakos.com, 1st Floor, Avanti, Rua De Ourem, Opposite Patto Bridge, Panjim, 9322161846, Instagram.

Chippery

A fish and chip shop in Goa! Brand new in Saligao, this "salt-of-the-earth" eatery does things that batter with fresh catch. Pair with equally crisp air and crisper cold drinks.

Saligao, 7 to 10 pm, Instagram.

Cream Choc

The only Goa scoop you’ll ever need! While they home deliver limited flavours, it's best to visit this church-view dessert parlour for rotating new ones - we once tried a candied ginger-yogurt ice cream that we can’t stop thinking about. A Sicilian Pistachio- Dark Chocolate half-and-half scoop is our regular go-to.

Near Our Lady Of Health Chapel Complex, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 8766735358, Instagram.

Edible Archives

Previously a pop-up at the Kochi Biennale, this Anjuna restaurant in an old Portuguese home, does not use terms like ‘ingredient driven’ and ‘zero waste’ to tick all the marketing boxes. A ton of research and careful ingredient sourcing makes every meal here super interesting, the whole experience directed by food geek, sustainable warrior and chef Anumitra, who is also armed with a PhD in cognitive linguistics and extensive work-ex in kitchens around the world. Get a batch of Blue Moon cocktails (made from butterfly pea flowers) to support aromatic rice and fish dishes.

1301, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Kumbhar Vaddo, Anjuna, 8308830750, Instagram.

Elephant & Co.

Sip deliciously potent cocktails on a paddy field, while you play spot the peacocks during the monsoon, which promises to be this show’s best season yet. Follow this pachyderm’s programing on Instagram to discover and attend intimate live gigs and smashing DJ sets. On more sedate nights, partner-owner Moustapha offers a where-everybody-knows-your-name vibe.

House no. 1049/2, Survey no. 16/1 Grand Pedder Field, Peddem, Anjuna, 7666361130, Instagram.

Fireback

Named after Thailand’s national bird, the Siamese Fireback, this hot new restaurant from the Indian Accent flock gives us much to tweet about. First and foremost, it makes good on two promises - lovely views and legendary curries. Sit before the grand St Anthony’s Church and order from a menu put together by multi-award winning chef David Thompson and the Fireback team, who focus on “authentic, unfussy” dishes. The Josper grill is the star of the show here while the kitchen sends out a range of fluffy omlettes, small plates, salads, skewers and curries. bpb recommends: the pomelo-ginger-coconut-betel-leaf salad; soft shell crab red curry; skewered turmeric prawns and stir-fried beans. You can choose to sit indoors in a glass house style set up, or walk out onto a river-side deck where a seductive bar serves a host of craft cocktails, including whisky with galangal brine, gin with Thai basil and custard apple, and rum with rice and mango.

Firebackrestaurant.com, Irada Home, House No. 60/1 A1, near St. Anthony's Church, Siolim, Bardez, 9209717970, Instagram.

For The Record

A bar that’s dedicated to everything your hipster heart desires - vinyls and well-made cocktails using their very own distilled feni and decoctions. Often the last stop on our Panjim bar crawl, for pizza and feni cocktails. And rise up for their sourdough workshops.

Jukebox, house no 49, next to Audiophile Goa, Fontainhas, Mala, Panaji, 7507472587, Instagram.

Grind Bar

Home of the Anjuna hipsters, Grind Bar is the coffee place where you and your beanie need to be scene-y. Order their Coffee Lemonade + PB&J on sourdough, while you ask after their weekend bar takeovers and listening room.

1 & 2, 1269/3 Casa Esmeralda Gaum Wadi, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Bardez, 8799920954, Instagram.

Grumps

Among the many legs in the furniture-favoured neighbourhood of Sangolda - hello, Saudades, Freedom Tree, Paper Boat - lie hands that mix the tastiest cocktails and stir delicious Asian sharing plates at Grumps, a brand new neighborhood bar. Our favourite Grumps routine is to get a seat at the bar, share plates of grilled beef tongue and bacon fried rice, and get multiple rounds of Smack That, a magical clear cocktail made with cashew, maraschino, frangipani and snack pepper brine. PS: look for cute co-owner Kartik, who in the past has worked with Izumi Goa and The Bombay Canteen-O Pedro group.

58/B, Grumps Street, Sangolda, 9226396226, Instagram.

Handmade by Namrata Pai

Cream cheese garlic buns and raspberry almond tarts on speed dial. You can stop by this bread-box sized Assagao bakery or order in; chef-owner Namrata Pai’s dark chocolate-sea salt cookies are a guaranteed cure to the Monday blues. New on the menu: tiramisu tubs, baked yogurt and granola parfait, fresh pineapple brown butter almond cake.

510/4 Bounta Vaddo, Assagao, 8322959952, Instagram.

Hello Sunshine

The next time you wash up on Goa’s shores, drop in and experience the vibe of the eternally optimistic Hello Sunshine Cafe, a healthy all-day brekkie and lunch spot in Anjuna. With a focus on creating dishes using fresh local ingredients, this little cafe compels you to bring friends and share everything: fantastic crepes and waffles, eggs and smoothie bowls, gluten-free, sugar-free brownies and super freshly baked goods. And while you are ordering, don’t miss their delicious Buma Devi dark roast from Marcs Coffee in Auroville. We love that while you can get a virtuous hot ginger lemon turmeric hand pounded healthy drink mix here (it’s a crowd favourite!), Hello Sunshine doesn’t forget that you sometimes need a potent cocktail or a glass of prosecco to go with lunch.

Verandah Hotel, Igraj Waddo, Anjuna, 7887998957, Instagram.

Hideaway

They made it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars list last year! A garden bar for outdoor drinking and live music gigs, this is a great option for your Anjuna bar hopping night. Get a big bowl of nachos with pork chorizo and butter garlic calamari, with repeat rounds of margaritas and palomas.

Cross Anjuna, house no. 622, Chapora, Vagator, 9049097014, Instagram.

HOSA

We dare you to resist the charms of HOSA, a restaurant that has all of this (and more) in its arsenal: a glorious 122 year old home, a giddy bar and a Guntur Crab Fry to die for. The makers of Indian Accent and Comorin nurtured HOSA, which just turned one, and continues to celebrate the culinary diversity of South India with a brand-new menu and an exhibition of photographs by renowned photographer Rohit Chawla, titled 'The Inspired Frame'. Chef Suresh DC has created a collection of mico-regional dishes including Ginger Tamarind Pork Ribs, Alleppey Seafood HotPot; Nellai Chicken Curry and Iyengar Honey Cake.

www.hosarestaurant.com, Irada Home, Near St. Anthony’s Church, Siolim, Bardez, 8326747212/7498627977, Instagram.

Izumi

Blooming in Botanique’s backyard is Bombay’s Izumi, a place where you can eat your unagi and sip your sake, swimming poolside. Get the Hanataba Vegetable Tempura, Negi Chutoro with Crispy Inari and Avocado, Katsu Sandos and the new Tamago with Mentaiko mayo. We’re egging you on.

45, Mapusa-Anjuna - Chapora Road, Assagao, 9923645569, Instagram.

Joseph Bakery

On your Mapusa market run, stop by this old school Goan bakery for the best Batica cake, made with coconut and semolina.

Khorlim, Mapusa, Goa, 8322262651.

Joseph Bar

While hipsters hem and haw about Joseph becoming "too commercial", we still can't resist the lure of this atmospheric feni bar. Always the first stop in our Fontainhas-fun bar hop! Chat with manager Gundu while he serves up Tambde Rosa cocktails and cool stories.

Gomes Pereira Road, Altinho, 8788432184, Instagram.

Jugnu

Experience Assagao in all its authenticity at Jugnu — a 160-year-old Indo-Portuguese home reimagined into a warm, soulful dining space. Thoughtfully preserved with its natural foliage and old trees intact, Jugnu offers seven distinct dining zones to suit every mood. Whether under the sun or after dark, let Jugnu’s gentle glow wrap you in warmth. This global kitchen pours its heart and soul into intimate dining rooms, lush gardens, cabanas by a waterfall, and charming tables tucked under graceful arches. Feast on standout dishes like Mangalorean ghee roast and Khandeshi mutton raan, or settle in for a night of inventive cocktails infused with Indian-global ingredients — think pistachio-cardamom orgeat, kokum & jasmine, or curry leaf with cucumber wine cordial. For something more special, they also offer a cozy private dining room and a grand ballroom for private events. Time for a glow-up.

www.jugnugoa.in, House No 140, Bairo Alto, Assagao, 9766669304/9766669305, Instagram.

Juju

South Goa’s Juju is full of joy! A juicy orange bar and dining room is cushioned in riotous greens, where you can lose track of time. The stellar kitchen team employs local ingredients and modern techniques to rewrite iconic Indian dishes. The Kasundi Snapper Fillet for instance, is served with wilted green bhaji and herbed potato croquettes, while the Baby Baingan Chili Salan is cooked with peanut butter and served with mini kulchas. Over at the bar, you will find a wide range of expertly made cocktails, some of which are dedicated to various Indian states and cities. Us, we’re partial to the Maharashtra, built with banana whisky, dry vermouth, aperitif liquor, amaro and strawberry foam. Only good juju here! PS: Track their Instagram for live music updates and the most fun food festivals. 

jujugoa.com, House number 29/1, Gandaulim, Colva, Salcete, 8956691430, Instagram.

Larder & Folk

An incredible new location in Panjim! CIA graduates bring us insanely good fried chicken and confit garlic grilled cheese, braided cinnamon donuts and chocolate chip cookies that are bigger than your face. PS: they bake the most decadent celebration cakes, including a towering made-to-order croquembouche. Happy birthday to us!

HO, 1/61, Vivenda Aleluia, Rua São Tomé, behind GPO, Panaji, 9359815109, Instagram.

Lazy Goose

It doesn’t get more Goan than this - a favourite amongst locals and tourists alike. Sip on a refreshing cocktail as you watch local fishing boats sail along the Nerul River while being serenaded to live music. Located on the pristine backwaters of North Goa, this grill house and bar brings you their signature mud crabs and red snapper fresh from the river. Apart from their dedicated Goan menu, they offer award-winning steaks and grills and signature vegetarian selections from curries to continental. At Lazy Goose, you can also opt to experience crab catching and fishing or simply enjoy a backwater sunset boat ride to spot birds and crocs.

Below the Nerul Candolim bridge, Nerul River, 7020315563, Instagram.

Lizard King Brewing

Legend has it that brewmaster George Jacob started down a lizard -- "a big bugger" -- and built a brewery from it. Intrigued? Get the full story at Lizard King Brewery, a new Arpora spot that serves "beer, rock & roll and rebellion" on tap.

Arpora, shut on Mondays, Instagram.

Miguel’s

In many ways, Miguel’s kickstarted the posh culinary scene at Panjim’s Fontainhas, paving the way for experimental new restaurants and getting North Goa groups to pencil a Panjim day into their schedules. Showman chef and leader Madhav Dayal is ambitious and it shows in the kitchen’s constant innovations (hello, Jackson Pollock steak) and the bar that sends out excellents cocktails (Old fashioneds with coconut sugar) and petiscos.

H No 111 Bento Miguel, Old Patto Bridge, Panaji, 9112222584, Instagram.

MTW Bar

A Nao Spirits (Greater Than, Hapusa) office by day, cocktail bar by night, this new spot knows that work can be rough which is why they’ve divided the beverage menu by Long Days, Tough Days and Half Days. Order a quick bite from the Snacks Break list and sip on an EOD or Out of Office cocktail to watch your stress melt away. 

Ground floor, Mayfair Hotel, Dr Dada Vaidya Road, near Mahalaxmi Temple, Altinho, Panaji, Instagram.

Nama Waterfront

Nourished by the coastal breeze and sustained by the Nerul river, Nama Waterfront at Siolim is the place to slow down at. With riverfront tables and seats under a glasshouse, the sun, sky and stars don’t feel far when you are dining here. Ask for the moon, and they might just serve it to you on a silver platter. Well, maybe not but it sure feels that way, because the service is incredible. Their newest culinary experience, The Grills at Nama - has been timed with the new nip in the air. Live grills feature quality meats, fresh local seafood, and vibrant veggies; these are delicately charred, beautifully plated and paired with delish cocktails.

Nama, Badem, Siolim, 6262282877, Instagram.

Nada At Juna

Nada, a Fontainhas house for porcelain objects and specialty coffee opened a new home-within-a-home this November, inside Juna at Anjuna. Stop by for smoothies, slow bakes, all-day breakfast (9.30 am to 6 pm) and of course, coffee.

Nada at Juna, Anjuna, Instagram.

Oppas

Oppas presents itself in a food truck avatar at Anjuna, as well as a Chapora restaurant across from Holy Cross Chapel. Both dole out the best beef roast poies. Can I get an amen?

Anjuna, outside Oxford Supermarket; Chappora, Instagram.

Pablo's

This bar may have title-transitioned from Escobar to Pablo's, but its chilled vibe remains. One of our favourite Goa spots to get a drink, this "friendly neighbourhood bar" writes its cocktail menu on the tiled wall of the self service bar, and also has interesting beer on tap. Stop by for infused feni and a local tavern-like atmosphere.

Junction, Badem Road, Badem, Assagao, Vagator, 9890345291, Instagram.

Padaria Prazeres

You’ll go for the Portuguese pastel de natas, you’ll stay for the Sour Cherry Financiers. Also order their punchy stout beer cheese toast and incredible new chicken and egg muffin. At the end of the year, always save room for the strawberry and cream bun.

Celeste Plaza, ground floor, opposite Models Celebrity, Caranzalem, Panaji, 9322806130, Instagram.

Peter Tavern

27-year-old Ninoshka D’Souza took over her grandfather’s bar that was shuttered for 26 years, to restart Peter Tavern. Post 9 pm, regulars pour into this family-run tavern for feni and salt-pepper beef; Ninoshka recommends you try her favourites - choriz french fries and golden fried butter garlic squid. She is also open to renting out the entire tavern in the afternoon if you’d like to host a private susegado style lunch. Don’t forget to invite us!

Paliem Shemeachem Bhatt, Ucassaim, 7507587060, Instagram, 7 pm to 11pm, closed on Mondays.

Praca Prazeres

New from the Padaria Prazeres people, this new Panjim diner serves “fuss-free” European food cooked in an open kitchen. Go for the lemon-brown butter gnocchi and order repeats of the pina coladas garnished with baby’s breath. 

Off Rua de Ourém, behind Hotel Sona Building, Altinho, Goa, Panaji, 8459801154, Instagram.

Quinta Cantina

Panjim’s newest watering hole, this agave and feni-forward bar is fun, unpretentious and just the kind of place that promises a chilled, vibe-y Goa night out. The man at the helm, Pankaj Balachandran, has become somewhat of a Midas on the bar circuit, his involvement offering an almost-certain place on a global best-of list. The Goan-Mexican food is fun fare to line your stomach while you lick back Tommy’s Margaritas.

No. 82, P.T, Sheet No. 45, H.No. 62-C1 of Chalta, behind Head Post Office, next to O'Pierre Hotel, Panaji, 8446811656, Instagram.

Ramesh

Lunch and lounge on the porch of an old village home where the freshest mackerel (order a day in advance) is hay-smoked in front of you to present what could well be the most elegantly flavoured fish you’ll eat in Goa. The plastic-chair-and-table set up is super basic, the food, brilliant. Their fried chonak and prawn curry are great too.

House no 954/7, Pequem, Peddem, Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna, 9822583319, Instagram.

Second House

The darlings from The Daily in Mumbai have worked with architect Ayaz Basrai and ex O Pedro chef Jyoti Singh to build out your new second house in Goa, so visit often. This visual art, restaurant and bar space set in an extraordinary old home strives to be as much about Goa’s future as it is about its past. Trust us and get the flavour-bomb Salmon Toast topped with egg yolk jam.

The Second House, next to The First House, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 8530266603, Instagram.

Slow Tide

Goa resident Neil D’souza hoped to re-define the Anjuna shack when he dreamed up Slow Tide and teamed up with award winning Sri Lankan architect Palinda Kannangara, to create a space that’s a nod to the neighbourhood’s OG hippie culture. Perched at the lip of Anjuna beach, Slow Tide’s stunning expanse is divided into a dreamy long bar; beachfront frolick seats; a sand pit like-area to stroll through barefoot in between courses; and a sparkling indoor dining room. At the bar, order cocktails that are modern odes to the alcohol culture of Goa (get high on Acid Erik). The kitchen sends out sophisticated dishes from Indian communities influenced by the Portuguese, including Thalipeeth, Chorizo Hot Dogs and our favourite Spiced Pineapple Curry.

slowtidegoa.com, Dmello Vaddo, Anjuna, 8055255266, Instagram.

Suzie’s

Perhaps it’s a Bombay thing, but we prefer to skip the slow many-courses meal and go instead for Suzie’s stellar cocktails (St. Lawrence) + quick orders from the starters menu (Pork Chao Shou). Its pretty, twinkling space populated with plants and peace is great for date night.

House no. 531, near Chari Garage, Bouta Waddo, Assagao, 7498856389, Instagram.

Tamil Table

Sacha of Sacha’s shop, and her partner run this dosa diner where you can get an excellent mackerel vadais, as well Cazulo-jambul coolers spiked with whatever makes you happy. PS: always ask for extra helpings of their roasted peanut chutney.

House no 261, Socolvaddo, Assagao, 7499922517, Instagram.

Verandah

At least one Ashwem swim day should end at Verandah, where an enchanted Eden houses all the gin you can drink and grassy paths lead to a coveted top table with front row seats to the sweetest gigs. Order coils of Spaghetti alla Nerano, heaps of fresh salad and pizza.

Calist House, Ashwem-Mandrem Road, Mandrem, 9503105092, Instagram.

Villa Nova

Everyone's favourite culinary star turns five this December, and they’re celebrating with a slew of shiny, new things. First up in the kitchen, a constellation of new dishes including Katsu Curry, Penang Curry Noodle Bowl and The Tomba Pizza, as well as a baby pizza oven that’s been doing the rounds for their in-villa catering. Next, mosey on to the bar where a new cocktail menu will smooth talk you into trying one of each; we recommend the Italian prosecco cocktail list. And last but not yeast, this Arpora restaurant is opening a gourmet sandwich shop - Nova Sandwich Shop - in Anjuna this December, just in time for the season(ing).

House No. 286, Dias Waddo, Arpora-Nagoa, 9168862111, Instagram.

Also remember the classics: 7 Short 1 Long, Artjuna Cafe, Mojigao.

Experience: Padel In The Greens, Swim In The Wild, Go To Jail

Put Your Trust In The Goa Open Water Swimming Club

"Live in the sunshine, swim in the sea, drink the wild air." The Goa Open Water Swimming Club, both romanticises and simplifies the ocean for you. They are here to take away your fear of open water swimming, to make it a safe and joyful experience while helping you understand “her many moods”. What started out as a group of sea lovers who swam every Sunday morning and explored different beaches along the coast of Goa, has now grown into a formal one-stop shop for all things open water swimming. From beginner to advanced camps and assisted swims along the coast of Goa, to planning a fun sea-swimming party and corporate off-site, their trained instructors will make sure you feel one with the sea.

www.goaopenwaterswimmingclub.com, Siridao Road, Aldeia de Goa, Bambolim, Siridao, 9834009511, Instagram.

Play At Coco Padel

A solid community has sprung from Goa’s first padel court that opened early this year, where new friendships have already been won and tournaments have been lost. It may please the court to know that Coco Padel has made good on its “scenic courts only” vision. This, their premier project at Anjuna features a blue padel court polished and set like a sapphire in a grove of green foliage at sustainable hotel, Circle. On the same premises, a natural rocky swimming pool gurgles, a pottery studio glazes and after-padel cocktails giggle at the bar next door. Lob Marley!

1689, Panchayat, behind DevKuteshwar Temple, Anjuna, Instagram.

Eat, Drink & Be Merry At A Former Seaside Prison Complex 

The Aguad, an incredibly beautiful old Portuguese prison complex dating back to 1612, is lined with palm trees and perched on the edge of the Arabian Sea. Here, a network of bars, restaurants and food trucks (Motley Brew, Black Sheep Bistro & more) are sentenced to spend their time, in the company of a museum and a small cinema. The Aguad also hosts live music events and encourages you to sign up for a fantastic heritage walk. 

Aguada Port & Jail Complex, Sinquerim, www.aguad.in.

Feast In the Fields

We know this has been Instagrammed to death, but there’s a reason for that: it’s just so beautiful. A long table is laid out in a paddy field where you can drink feni cocktails and lunch with other beautiful strangers. Urbanaut offers this + other lovely Goa experiences from feni tastings to kayaking on the Chapora river.

Details here, download the Urbanaut app here, Instagram.

Remember Forgotten Music & Meals In Heritage Homes

Bombay-based PR maverick Schubert Fernandes and musician Omar De Loiola Pereira have joined forces to bring back traditional sounds of Goa. They do this by creating an intimate setting to showcase local folk music, which they are very clear does NOT include the Goan bands you hear at restaurant brunches. They arrange concerts staged in spectacular heritage homes paired with “forgotten” culinary delicacies prepared by home chefs under the guidance of Chef Oliver of The Goan Kitchen. Fado music with a side of rissois, anyone?

Call 9819792973 / [email protected], to attend a performance DM them on Instagram.

Glow Up With A Nocturnal Forest Walk

Bookmark this for the monsoon! Jungle compatriots Parag Rangnekar and Omkar Dharwadkar run nerdy seasonal walks under Mrugaya Xpeditions, and we’re here to recommend their trippy monsoon one. Bioluminescent mushrooms, mercurial hump-nosed pit vipers, bug-eyed bush frogs, and other creatures await during a night-time walk in the non-protected areas around Netravali and Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuaries. Fair warning: your silk PJs won’t survive this night.

Call 9822129811.

Meet Creators From Across South Asia

The Storiculture Company in Aldona empowers voices and storytellers from across South Asia, and conducts super interesting and legitimate immersive experiences, residencies, workshops and events, many of which are taught and presided over by global, award-winning creators.

Read more at www.thestoriculturecompany.com, headquartered in Aldona.

Join A Vegan Culinary School

This culinary school believes that plant based food is the future, and runs 9 week culinary programs to nudge you in that direction. Courses include Culinary Wellness, Fermentation, Gluten-Free and Oil-Free Cooking, Noodles and Pasta, Raw Gastronomy, Entertaining at Home and more. The school’s co-founder Nisha Garg, who has previously worked at Bomras and Stockholm plant based restaurant Växthuset teaches here as well.

www.theveganschool.org, 9903761884, Instagram.

bpb Goa is a fee related property

With additions from Insia Lacewalla, founder of India With Insia.

Don’t forget to dip into our archive of super useful bpb Long Lists for recommendations on the hottest gifts to give, the best home improvements to make, the tastiest snaxx for your hunger, tried-and-rested beauty buys, and everything your wedding planner doesn’t know about.